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In Victorian times, tuberose symbolised ‘dangerous pleasure’ and voluptuousness – and that’s pretty much what perfumers are aiming for, when they use it. Demeter Gin & Tonic The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. Made this tonight and everyone loved it. But whatever the source, there’s no getting away from castoreum’s seriously musky sensuality, which also has a hint of fruitiness. We’re much, much more than just a website: we’re a also a subscription organisation for perfume-lovers, offering events (including ‘meet the nose’ events), courses, sampling opportunities, and a beautiful regular downloadable magazine, The Scented Letter. But how does it smell? ‘Mock orange blossom’, it’s also known as – or Philadelphus. Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. Guerlain Insolence Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one that’s invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. Creative yums like dessert lasagna recipes or dessert hummus recipes can be fun, but they often require a packed pantry full of ingredients and mix-ins. Vegan Cheeseburger Pasta? Oddly enough, I find that my customers describe certain synthetic fragrances as ‘fresh and natural’. Lancôme Magie Noire It’s also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. I sometimes wonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are so enchanting. Unusually for a perfume ingredient you’ll quite often see it listed on the back of the carton which your fragrance bottle is packaged in: eugenol’s use is now restricted in perfumery, as it’s been known to cause allergies in some people, so it must be mentioned on perfume ingredients lists to alert them. There are around 200 different types of magnolia (named after a renowned French botanist, Pierre Magnol, who came up with the concept of classifying flora into ‘plant families’). Estée Lauder Private Collection Who could resist rolling around in that? (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) Cassie. Floris Fleur Philospohy Baby Grace
Lancôme Trésor it is so yommy! In the garden, it grows like wildfire and can be invasive (bamboo’s one of the fastest-growing plants on earth). Let cool. However, as Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, ‘it leaves a hole’. France is still the epicentre of production, though: more and 80,000 kilos of lavender are grown each year. With its hints of plum and peach, and a touch of lush green, mango’s often to be found alongside floral notes in the fruity-floral compositions which have become so popular in recent years.
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